Here’s (another) question I’m asked all the time: When is it time for me to get a new computer? (Or iPhone, iPad, printer, etc.)

My first answer: Most people don’t like change, and some of them get too attached to something that works, and they don’t want to get another device that might be different. Years ago, nobody would’ve thought that one day in the not-too-distant future people would be paying hundreds of dollars for a phone, have multiple computers in the household, or even ditching cable television in favor of streaming services.

But to quote Bob Dylan, the times they are a-changin’, and that trend seems to grow stronger as time marches on. (There are driverless cars cruising around California as you read this, but that’s a story for another day!)  What I’m saying here is that what’s once was considered “cutting edge” is now in the dustbin, and today there are newer, bigger, faster, sexier, and better versions of the same product available. But back to the question at hand: When exactly is the best time to decide it’s the optimal time to go out with the old and in with the new?

OK, first thing to remember is that computers (and other tech products) are generally considered “depreciating assets,” which means (among other things) that unlike vintage guitars, certain wines, and some art, they are less valuable as time passes. So – having said that, the iMac you bought in 2010 for $1199 will probably sell for about $60 today. If you’re lucky. And since Apple generally gives seven years of life to its Mac line, you should be (in theory, anyway) on your third new computer if you bought in 2010.

But most importantly – when is the time to replace your computer?

My answer (and I’m NOT being a wise guy!): When it’s time.

And what is that time, you may ask? Think of it the same way you buy a car. As long as it works and gets the job done, you should probably keep it. But once it starts getting hot, freezes up a lot, the battery won’t hold a charge (if it’s a laptop), not able to connect to certain websites (and the OS can’t get upgraded), that could be the time. You can certainly tempt fate and keep your old Mac running, with a “fight ‘em ‘til you can’t” attitude, and that’s great. I see plenty of older Macs way past their expiration date, working fine day after day.  

So, you’re surfing the web, minding your own business, and suddenly a scary warning (like those to the left) takes over your entire screen. WTF? You start asking questions like:

• “How did this happen?”
•  “Is this legitimate?”
•  “Do I have a virus?”
•  “How do I get rid of this?”
•  “Should I call the number on the screen?”
• Etc.

The worst part – there doesn’t seem to be any way to force this thing to go away, all while it’s blurting its hideous warning.

OK, let’s start with the important part – what is it?

Simply put: Scam. It’s a web page you stumbled onto by accident. Perhaps you clicked on a link that looked legitimate or could’ve been caused by misspelling a word when typing it into the browser. (Could be Safari, Chrome, Firefox, or whatever web browser you were using.) So, it’s simply a webpage. The point is to get you to call the number displayed – and the end game is either to sell you services you don’t need (bad) or get your credit card or other financial information (worse).

So, what do you do when this happens?

Start by muting the volume of the computer (hit the F10 key in the top row on your keyboard). It’s hard to think clearly when your computer is making all sorts of noises, and that’s what the scammer wants – to frighten you and quickly resolve the issue. Don’t worry – it’s not a virus! And NEVER call the number!

You’ll notice that you can’t always easily quit the application, as it has gone into “full screen” mode and the Command-Q key (to quit the application) doesn’t always work in this situation.

Then it’s time to “force quit” the application that is causing the grief. Quickest way: Press the COMMAND key and then the TAB key. (You can do that with your left hand.) Doing that will let you scroll between all the applications that are open on your Mac. Land on the FINDER (the blue smiling face), and once you’re there, pull down on the apple (upper left corner of the screen) and select FORCE QUIT.

You’re almost home! Find your web browser in the list (most likely Google Chrome, Safari, or Firefox), highlight it, and smash the FORCE QUIT button in the lower right corner of the window. Whew!

I don’t know exactly what it is (perhaps somebody out there can tell me!), but last month (February 2025) seemed to be a high-water mark of scammers calling, texting, or emailing clients. (And me as well!) Now are these grifters proliferating because they need the business, or because they’ve found a formula that works? Again, the great unknown. 

Although the fine points of each hoax varies, there IS one thing they all have in common; they play upon your emotions with scare tactics. You’re going to lose your data! You’ll be locked out of your bank! You just paid for a laptop that’s being shipped somewhere far away! On and on it goes. 

Now how do these scams meet your eyeballs?

Email: The most common method. You’ll get an email alerting you to some impending doom.

Webpage: Once in a while, you’ll stumble onto a webpage that will set off alarm bells (literally) and claim your data will be destroyed if you leave said webpage. 

Text: A text (from a sender NOT in your contacts list) will have you click a link or (less often), contain a PDF for you to open. 

Phone call: A caller from some “official” organization (Apple, Microsoft, Social Security, IRS, etc.) will claim there’s a problem with your account. This approach is diminishing, as either laws, phone company involvement, public awareness, or just plain oversaturation has killed this way of “doing business.”

So, let’s take a close look at these scams and see what common DNA they share. 

They come out of the blue: You’re sitting around, minding your own business, when suddenly someone (usually an important someone) alerts you to a problem you didn’t even know you had. 

There’s money involved: A large percentage of these involve some payment you’ve supposedly made, but in reality, you didn’t.

There is a sense of urgency: If you don’t respond in a timely manner, something terrible will happen – a vital service will be terminated, your credit card will be charged, your data will be lost, etc. 

You’re hectored multiple times in the same email to act (again, playing on your emotions): You’re warned of a dire outcome [CLICK HERE], life as you know it will never be the same [CLICK HERE], etc.

There are several tells in these scam emails:

Look for non-U.S. English use of numbers: For example, “+1” before a phone number (that’s an overseas thing), non-dollar currency symbols (￡699.33), or just plain sloppiness in the way things are presented (such as writing “PayPal” as “Paypal”) or using the currency symbol incorrectly (280.75$).

Also check the wording: See the MacOS Security Center example – Apple would NEVER call one of its computers a “PC!” Plus, note the space after the “t” in “Alert” and the “!”

Click on the sender’s email: Most of the time, it is NOT from the domain it claims it is. See PayPal example – a legitimate email from PayPal would NOT have a @gmail.com domain from the sender. (Though this can be spoofed, so don’t use this as your only litmus test!)

One good thing about Google: Even if you disagree with some (or all) of its policies, it IS good at keeping junk mail out of your inbox as well as keeping legitimate mail out of the junk mailbox. (See inbox example below.) One quick note; some of the emails reference popular providers (McAfee and Netflix, to name two) that I personally do not subscribe to. And I’ve never gambled at a casino. Not even one thin dime…

Good rule: If you ever need to log into ANY account, log in using your preferred web browser, NEVER from an email or text link!

As any Apple user can attest to, our friends in Cupertino certainly aren’t shy when it comes into hectoring us into using its cloud service, iCloud. A lot of users try to avoid it, but that’s about effective as emptying a swimming pool with a teacup. Even if you don’t use its features, most people, even the most tech-suspicious ones, eventually pull out the white flag and surrender to Tim Cook & Co.

It’s important to remember that iCloud is a SERVICE – a service that has a free option and a paid tier. In short, it allows you to sync data between your Apple (and even non-Apple) devices. That data includes photos, contacts, calendars, notes, email (if you use an @icloud account), and your data and files, along with a few other items. 

OK, now that we’ve established that iCloud is a SERVICE – what do we use it for? (Understand that all these are optional, not required!) For one thing, it backs up your data – so if you lose or replace your Apple device, you can log into iCloud and Bang! All your data that you elected to save comes right back into place*.  This includes:

Photos: iCloud allows you to back up your photos on the cloud, sync your photos between your devices, as well as share albums and view shared albums. 

Your data and files: The files in your Documents folder and on your desktop are backed up to the cloud and synced between your devices. 

Contacts, Calendar, and Notes: These items are backed up to the cloud and synced and shared between your devices, so you’re always up to date with the data. 

Email and Messages: Email (only if you’re using an @icloud account) and messages are also synced between devices.

iOS devices: By enabling a backup, you can easily restore your data on a new iPhone or iPad a device if you must replace it, whether for upgrade purposes, or for setting up a device to replace a lost or damaged one.

And there are more: Passwords, Safari bookmarks, Reminders, Stocks, Wallet, among others.

* Understand that these services must be enabled (by YOU) in advance in order to sync your data to the cloud.

Also understand there are some space limitations. Apple gives you a measly 5 GB of storage space for free (which is analogous to receiving a $25 gift card to Nordstrom. It’s nice, but you’re probably going to have to spend more). In the big picture, that’s not a lot – it’s. (Just for context, Google gives you three times the storage for free than Apple does.) 

Prices (as of January 2025) for upgrading your iCloud storage:

50 GB – 99¢/month

200 GB – $2.99/month

2 TB – $9.99/month

6 TB – $9.99/month

12 TB – $59.99/month

Welcome to 2025! With the new year comes a fresh start, time to say goodbye to yesterday. And because your computer’s hard drive has a finite amount of space available, the first of the year is a good time to clean things up when it comes to the data on your computer. And this goes for your email as well. 

First thing you’re going to need is an external hard drive, preferably a solid state (SSD) model, although if you have an old school type lurking about, that will do the trick. Once you copy your data to the external drive, plan on putting in a secure place, such as a safe or lockbox.

OK, so the best way to back up data is to copy your entire “home” folder onto a backup drive. Not only will that copy all the files on your Desktop, Documents, and Downloads folders, it will back up your Library folder, which contains your browser settings, your email (whether you use Apple’s Mail program or Outlook), and other miscellaneous items, such as Quicken files, among others. Your “home” folder (which usually named after you) is found inside the Users folder, which is found in the top level of your hard drive, which is named “Macintosh HD” by default. 

*Important note: If you have multiple user accounts on the computer, you will want to back up ALL the different “home” folders found within the Users folder. 

To back up your “home” folder, plug in the external hard drive and allow it to mount. Depending on how you have your finder settings enable it may appear on the desktop. If it does, double click it and drag your home folder onto it. If it doesn’t appear on the desktop, open a new finder window (Command-N) and look for it in the sidebar of the window. Best practice dictates that you first create a new folder on the external drive with the date of the transfer. 

*More important notes: If you’re using the external drive for a Time Machine backup, you won’t be able to use it for any additional files, unless you have an older Mac OS. AND if you have any files that you want to copy that are OUTSIDE of your home folder (on the top level of the hard drive, for example), you’ll have to copy those to the external drive after you copy the home folder. Yes, things get more complex as time rolls by…

Keeping your files organized on your computer is as important as keeping stuff organized in your home; it’s good to follow the “a place for everything and everything in its place” as Benjamin Franklin said a few years ago. Ergo, sticking every file you have on your desktop is a dangerous road to travel. Knowing where to store your files (and how to easily access them) is key.

But – I’m often asked about the best way to organize computer files. I’m no digital hoarder, but I’m not a minimalist either. (There is a happy medium!) 

First of all – the only files I keep on my desktop are things that I need right now (such as this Word document and other newsletter files), items that will need my attention shortly, and aliases of couple of folders. The main folder I use (this year, anyway) is called 2024, which resides in my DOCUMENTS folder. I consider “2024” to be my file cabinet, at least for the next 31 days, when it will be replaced with “2025.” (More on that later.)

Inside 2024, there are a series of other folders, with names such as:

• Admin
• Blogging
• House & Home
• Finances
• Medical
• Work

(Among many others)

So – every file I create finds a home in one of these folders, all of which reside inside of 2024, as mentioned previously.  Note that these folders can also contain subfolders – for example FINANCES has a TAX folder and a BUSINESS RECIPETS folder, among others. And, if for some reason, I have a document that doesn’t fit neatly into any of the top-level folders (or subfolders), I’ll create a new folder. 

Every January 1, I archive the previous year’s folder and lock it away for safe keeping. And I create a new folder for that year. I may be bring some of last year’s data into this year’s folder, such as tax items I’ve accumulated along the way. And my previous year’s data is safe and sound, off of my computer. And, for any reason, I need reference information from previous years, I know exactly where to find it.

Passwords – the bane of many people’s existence. (Including mine!) Sometimes it seems that clients spend 80% of their time chasing down passwords.

Funny thing, but a lot of people don’t even know they have passwords for important things. I often get “I don’t have a password!” when I ask a client to enter their password. (Sorry, but virtually EVERYTHING requires a password these days.) And then there are rules about passwords – how many characters are required, whether it requires any caps, numbers, or special characters, and all that fun stuff, but that’s a subject for a future blog.

But most importantly – how do YOU record your passwords? One tech guy I worked with back in my corporate days had every employee’s password on a sheet of paper. Thumbtacked to the wall of his cube. But it was secure – he tacked it on backwards. (Don’t be that guy!)

But what are the best ways to record your passwords? 

Here is what I have come across in my tech journeys. PLEASE understand that this is an extremely surface level look at this subject – there’s enough here to write a best-selling book on the subject. (Now, that’s a great exit strategy!)

Method: Recording passwords on scraps of paper

Pros: Very accessible to you

Cons: Also accessible to bad actors, easily lost among other clutter

I see lots of this – scraps of paper with passwords scrawled (and crossed off) on them. Probably the most primitive way to handle this issue. Sure, it works, but if the papers get lost, stolen, or not updated the next time you forget a password and need to reset it, it’s a fairly worthless exercise. Plus, you’re always one coffee or red wine spill away from disaster.

Bottom line: You can do better than that! Move on to a more sophisticated method.

Method: Using a notebook

Pros: Very accessible, easier to organize than scraps of paper

Cons: Can find its way into the wrong hands (if you’re not careful), easily misplaced

The next level up on the food chain, the notebook is yet another popular method for storing passwords. The pros and cons are the same as the scraps example listed above, but at least they’re all in one place. More organized. And easier to hide or lock up. 

Bottom Line: Not the best way to handle things, but not the worst, either. 

Method: Spreadsheet

Pros: Reasonably safe, as long as you secure it with a password

Cons: If your computer goes down without a backup, you’re hosed – same answer if you forget the password to the file

Making a spreadsheet with your passwords is one decent way to save them. Simply create an Excel (or Numbers) spreadsheet, put a column in for your usernames, one for passwords, one (or more) for security questions, and one for the recovery phone number and/or recovery email you’ve established. Then secure the spreadsheet with a password. (Which means you have a password to access your passwords.) Just don’t forget the master password, or else you’re in big trouble. 

Bottom Line: A step in the right direction – at least you have the ability to lock it up!

Method: Allowing your browser to save passwords

Pros: Very convenient – it’s a “set and forget” scenario

Cons: Can be spread across your devices via an account, can be lost if your computer crashes without a backup of your Library folder, and it’s vulnerable to security breaches at the tech company that hosts your data

All the browsers out there have the option to “save your logins” within. A good idea in theory, but, for illustration’s sake, let’s look at doing this using Google Chrome. 

If you elect to save your passwords within Chrome, take note whether you’re “signed in” with a Google account – look in the upper right corner of a Chrome window to see if that’s the case. If you are, your passwords are being synced to all your devices that are also signed into that particular Google account. This is very convenient, as most of us own multiple devices, but there’s a downside – meaning your data is residing on somebody else’s server. 

Now, most of us have no lost love for Google, but on the flip side, it IS a top-tier company, and it takes security very seriously. Firefox (Mozilla) and Safari (Apple) also have similar functionality and security practices. Yes, all of these tech firms probably encrypt user data and are very secure, but you must understand that once you engage in this practice, a lot of this is out of your control. 

Bottom line: If you opt to save within your browser, decide how much you trust these big tech players with your data if you do elect to sync. 

Method: Password managers

Pros:  Makes password management simple, your data is encrypted 

Cons: Prone to tech issues, possibility of being hacked, single point of failure

There are a bunch of password manager software programs (a.k.a. apps) out there – designed to save (and possibly sync between devices) your passwords. The most popular ones are DashLane and 1Password, but there are scores of others, and most of them are pretty similar in features. The gist of password managers is that they remember usernames, passwords, and (in most cases) answers to security questions, and have a browser extension that allows autofill of your information. Most of them have two-tier options; a lower tier works on one device only, and a premium tier that syncs across all of your devices. Which brings to mind the sync issue described in the “save within browser” section above. Just check out what happened to LastPass a couple of years ago.

Bottom Line: With password managers, you must understand that you’re trading security for convenience. 

And now what NOT to do: NEVER allow any of your other sites (Facebook namely, but X as well, and [insert big tech firm name here] – which means NONE of them!) to save your logins! Mark Zuckerberg and Elon Musk both talk a big game about their companies, but do you really want one of those out-of-touch tech titans to have access to your data?

Let’s put it this way: I’m sure you know somebody who got their Facebook account hacked. How much help was Facebook? Does it have a number you can call? Perhaps an online chat or email that solved those issues? NO, to all of the above. Never trust your data with a company you can’t contact.  

Final tip: No matter what method you employ, when changing a password, make sure you mark the date you’ve changed it. (And expunge the previous password in your records!)

Released in mid-September, macOS 15 (Sequoia) has the most useful features of any Mac OS version of the last few years. The good news is that it delivers an entire host of useful features (plus some non-essential ones), but on the flip side, it’s only compatible with fairly recent Mac models, making it a non-issue for users with older Macs. If your Mac supports macOS 14 (Sonoma), it will run Sequoia (with the notable exception of pre-2020 MacBook Air laptops).

And, as expected, there are plenty of “cute” additions, bells and whistles, things that nobody ever uses (or cares about – new emojis, I’m talking to you!), but c’est la vie, these have become expected from our friends over in Cupertino. But all the fluff is.  outweighed by the addition of the useful new features. 

The five best new features of macOS Sequoia:

iPhone Mirroring 

This feature (actually a new app included in the OS update) allows you to control your iPhone from your Mac. Which is an extremely useful feature when it comes to troubleshooting your iPhone remotely. In iPhone Mirroring, you can use your Mac input devices (mouse, keyboard, trackpad) to control your iPhone. 

Of course, there are conditions. Not only does the Mac have to be upgraded to Sequoia, but the iPhone also has to be running iOS 18. And the iPhone must be signed in to the same Apple Account as the Mac. I’m finding this a little quirky in my tests, but I’m sure the big brains at Apple will get those bugs straightened out sooner rather than later. Hopefully.

Passwords App

Another new app, Passwords, was also included in the OS update. Gone are the days of messing around with Keychain, a semi-helpful item hidden in the Utilities folders. (Where is the Utilities folder?) Back then, all sorts of encryption keys and other non-useful stuff clogged up Keychain; in Sequoia, Keychain has been expunged. 

Now the user-friendly Passwords app looks to take on rival password managers, namely 1Password, Dashlane, Keeper, and LastPass (which has had its own share of trouble). 

Notes Upgrades

The Notes app has been part of the Mac OS since way-back-when, but with the release of Sequoia, there are some serious upgrades.  These include:

• Collapsable Sections: You can now collapse sections of notes, as long as they’ve been created under a “heading” within the note.

• Highlighting: Now, Notes allows texts in colors other than black. Five colors – pink, purple mint, blue, and orange – have been added. (Henry Ford be damned!)

• Recording and Transcribing: Notes now has a built-in audio recording feature, allowing you to compose (and transcribe) audio notes. This function does not replace Voice Memos, which is still available on the Mac and iPhone. 

Window Title Bar Options

This feature allows you customize what happens when you double click on the title bar of a window. In System Settings > Desktop & Dock, you have the option to fill the screen, zoom, or minimize. Or do nothing, if you have trouble making decisions. 

Calculator Upgrades

Similar to Notes, the calculator has been part of the Mac OS for a couple of light years. Way longer, as a matter of fact. In Sequoia, you know have the option to switch between Basic, Scientific, and Programmer calculators, as well as a whole host of conversions, using the Convert option.

These, and plenty more upgrades are all functions of the Sequoia OS. There are also plans for Apple Intelligence to be integrated into this (and iOS 18), but, for the most part, that is going to be included in an incremental upgrade. Stay tuned.  

Apple is holding its next event (Glowtime) on Monday, September 9^th, at 1 PM EST, which, of course, you can watch either live, or via a replay. If you have an Apple TV streaming media player (using the Apple TV app), you can watch it on there, or on any internet-connected device here. 

There are plenty of podcasts, articles, and other news outlets with full-time tech reporters that will give you the entire rundown on what’s the latest from Cupertino; but here, I’ll distill it down to what’s new and why you would want it. The iPhone 16 will no doubt be the centerpiece of the event. What’s better about the iPhone 16?

• Slightly larger screen size (for the Pro and Max series)
• Ability to run “Apple Intelligence” (more on that later)
• “Action Button” as introduced on the iPhone 15 last year
• Camera upgrade
• More color choices

Other upgrades/new versions expected to be announced:

• Apple Watch (Series 10 & Ultra 3)
• AirPods 4 (should be the entry-level standard, replacing AirPods 2 & 3)

In addition, some new software upgrades are expected:

• iOS 18 (the long-rumored Apple intelligence will have to wait until the iOS 18.1 update*
• watchOS 11
• MacOS 15 Sequoia

There are three other hardware rumors, both legacy products getting upgrades: iPad mini, AirPods Pro, and a long shot, a totally redesigned Mac mini computer, the latter of which interests me the most. Along with the iPhone 16 pro.

*iOS 18 will be backwards compatible with the iPhone 15 – not any previous models

 iCloud – something that continually confuses users. What is it? Is it good? Is it bad? What does it cost? Is it something that I really need? All the questions, all the time!

OK, to put it simply, iCloud is a service. It’s a service that allows you to sync data (and photos) between devices, back up your data (and photos) to the cloud, and more. There is a free version and a paid tier. 

If there is one takeaway you get from all of this – it’s that iCloud is a SERVICE. It’s Apple’s cloud platform, one that built into every modern Apple device. 

In iCloud, you can sync your data* between devices, including:

• Photos
• Files
• Notes
• Passwords
• Contacts
• Calendars
• Mail (if you opt for an @icloud.com account)

* Sync your data means that all the information that is shared between your devices automatically updated on all devices when changed on one of them. Useful for contacts, calendars, notes, and more.

It also allows you to back up your iOS devices (iPad and iPhone) to the cloud.  Helpful in the event your device gets lost or damaged, you can restore your data onto the replacement device and get on with your day. Simply enable iCloud on the new device, and all your data comes flowing in like water. 

The “Find My” feature helps locate misplaced devices and allows you to track family members. 

One thing in the liability column that Apple could easily improve upon; users are only allocated a Scrooge-like 5 GB for free. After that is gobbled up, you have to pay to play. And you should also understand most of these features are also available from competitors in the same space (namely Google, but there are others), but the hook is that all of these are seamless throughout the Apple ecosystem.

Understand that this is only touching on the most important (read: useful) aspects of iCloud. There’s an entire “family sharing” function, iCloud Private Relay (a fancy way of encrypting data), Hide My Email, HomeKit Secure Video, and more – things most users don’t bother with.