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Here’s a question I’m constantly asked: “What is the difference between backing up and syncing my data?”

And the question that follows next: “How do I get it back in the even that things go totally wrong?”

When I’m called and informed that a client’s computer has died or gotten lost/stolen, the first thing I ask, “Is the data backed up?” Sometimes yes, sometimes no. Well, that depends, whether the data was synced (via a cloud service such as iCloud, Google Drive, Dropbox, etc.) or if was backed up to local hard drive (a hard drive physically connected to the computer) or using a cloud-based backup service such as Carbonite or Backblaze.

So, let’s differentiate the two types of services, both of which have pros and cons: A service that SYNCS keeps your data consistent on two (or more) devices. So, if you have a desktop computer and a laptop (or iPad, iPhone, etc.), your data is same on all devices, assuming they’re connected to Wi-Fi. iCloud is Apple’s syncing service. The advantage of this: Changes made to your data on one device is reflected on the other.

However, the disadvantage of syncing is in the event you lose a document (or accidently save an older version), is that you can’t go back in time and recover the correct one. (For the most part.) For that, you need a backup. A local backup that uses Time Machine (Apple’s backup program that’s part of the macOS) enables you to recover documents from previous backups. As long as don’t forget to connect the external drive to the computer.

Similar to the local backup, using one of the aforementioned cloud backup services will also allow you to recover accidently deleted files, or older version of file. Again, as long as the backup is working. Those types of services can be flaky, and need babysitting.

A great way to keep your credit cards, loyalty cards, event tickets, and airline tickets within reach is in your iPhone’s wallet app. If you’ve ever seen somebody pay by touching their iPhone to the credit card reader, they’re using Apple Pay with a credit card stored in the wallet. 

In addition, you can store your loyalty cards in the Wallet, putting an end to that outdated idea of plastic bits and bobs hanging off your keychain. And you can store event tickets there as well, as most ticketing companies allow an option for users to add tickets to the Wallet. Airline and other travel tickets as well can be stored in the wallet, as physical tickets are nearly extinct. The future is now!

Who doesn’t love an invitation to a great event? By now, we’ve all gotten some electronic invitations to fun events. These come from sites such as Evite, Punchbowl, Greenvelope, et al., all of which allow you to click to RSVP. However, the latest trend in phishing attacks is to spoof the email of these sites and get the user to “sign in” using their email address and password.

This can lead to problems – once your email account is compromised, the bad guys can change the password and then start using that address to attempt to sign into banks and other sensitive sites. A scenario that we all want to avoid.

But beware the invite that seems suspicious. If something seems off kilter or the sender isn’t somebody who would normally invite you to something, then it’s probably a fake. You can contact the seller – NOT by clicking on a link on the invitation – but via email, text and phone to see if it’s legit. Like any other unsolicited communications, if it seems that something’s askew, it probably is.

So last month I wrote about how Intel-based apps will be rendered useless when (and if) you install the next macOS (Golden Gate), which is due out later this month. (But only if you own a Mac with an Apple Silicone chip – which was released late 2020.) To recap: For the most part, this has very little effect on your day-to-day workflow, as most of today’s applications have an updated version that allows them to run. Some older apps I’m using – namely Quicken and Sound Studio – have to be updated, both of which I must pay for.

What else do you need to know in Apple’s new world order?

USB-C adapters: Apple has discontinued the standard USB port for the new-age USB-C cables. You can still use old-school USB peripherals (hard drives, flash drives, CD/DVD drives, printers, etc.), only with a USB to USB-C adapter.*

* Important note: Adapters plugged into other adapters rarely work in the Mac world. This means connecting a USB drive with a USB to USB-C cable into a multi-port adapter isn’t the best idea.

Internal storage: Modern Macs have less “hard drive” capacity than their predecessors from years ago. That’s due to using solid state drives (SSDs) in recent models. (And the price of SSDs has skyrocketed in recent years, dues to overseas issues, as well as shortages due to their use in data centers.) In addition, unlike past models, upgrading the internal storage after purchase is impossible, so plan head.

RAM: Similar to internal storage, newer models don’t allow upgrades of RAM either. You’re stuck with what you’ve bought. Again, plan accordingly.

Ethernet ports: Apple’s laptops haven’t have an Ethernet port in years, but the latest iMac models don’t come with a built-in Ethernet port either. (The original 1964 1/2 Ford Mustang listed reverse lights and a radio as options, but that’s a story for another time.) If you want your iMac to connect via Ethernet, make sure you choose the option that allows that.

Lightning cables: The “old” iPhone connector cables had the Lightning connector (the smaller one) to plug into the phone, as opposed to the current USB-C which is now the standard, a trend that started with the iPhone 15. Thank our European friends for that one.

You might’ve seen one of the notices from Apple that it is ending support for Intel-based apps and perhaps wondering if it’s a scam. (It isn’t.) What it IS telling you – that the next macOS it’s releasing (27, named “Golden Gate”) isn’t going to support any Intel-based (read: older) versions of software on your computer. (It also won’t run on any pre-2020 Macs, but that’s another story altogether.)

What this is affecting is computers with the Apple Silicone chip, which is basically Macs produced from 2020 onward. How do you know how this will impact you? And how can you tell if your Mac has the old school Intel chip or the modern Apple Silicone chip?

Easy stuff! On your Mac, pull down on the Apple symbol (upper left corner) and select ABOUT THIS MAC. You’ll see all sorts of information about your computer, but here, we’re looking for what type of processor (a.k.a. chip) your computer is running. If the word “Intel” is listed, you’re working with an old(er) computer, and the Golden Gate update won’t affect you, as your computer will not be able to run it.

But – if you see “Apple” next to the chip type, then you’re working with one of the new(er) models (i.e. from 2020 and beyond), then you have the “Apple Silicone” chip and your Mac will be able to run Golden Gate. But that’s only one part of the story; any of your applications are older, they’ll have to be updated. For example, my Quicken 2016 isn’t going to work, as will Sound Studio. But all of the “big” ones – e.g. Microsoft Office, Adobe Creative Suite, Google Chrome and like are already ready for Golden Gate. But as for the apps that don’t work in Golden Gate, you’ll either have to download an update, pay for an upgrade, or learn to live without.

In the old days (20^th century), watching television was a simple process; you connected your cable box (unless you were using rabbit ears for “over the air” broadcasts) to your television’s input, and all the programing flowed through the cable box. Simple, right?

But then came the advent of broadband into your home, and suddenly there’s a whole new way to get content – via the internet. Suddenly, you realized you don’t have to be a slave to Optimum, Comcast, or whatever cable provider serves your location. You can stream content using a piece of hardware that connects to the internet, such as Apple TV (the device, not the service), Google TV Streamer, Amazon Fire TV Stick, and Roku, among others. Or via a “Smart TV” – a set with these features built in.

But there are a couple of problems here; for one, smart TVs don’t have a great interface, and are clunky to work with, as far as adding apps, navigating smoothly, and trying to keep things simple. Another issue, non-smart TVs are becoming increasingly difficult to find. But does that mean you’re stuck with the terrible interface (usually Google/Android) forever?

No, it doesn’t. While devices from Roku, Amazon, and Google all have their pros and cons, the best option (IMHO) is Apple’s streaming media hardware, aptly named Apple TV. Like other Apple products, its interface is simple and easy to navigate. It’s plug-and-play, simply connect it to an open HDMI port, instruct your TV to default to that port, and you’re ready to go. Sign in with your Apple Account, and you can download whatever apps (Netflix, Amazon Prime, Hulu, etc.) you need, and you’re ready to go. This setup bypasses the “smart” features on your TV, and allows you to have a more streamlined interface, and less hassle dealing with Android store (an entirely different set of sign ins!) and all that stuff on your smart TV.

The Apple TV streaming media player.

If you’ve been paying attention, I’ve commented on how certain email providers (namely Optimum, Yahoo, AOL, and Hotmail, among others) haven’t been keeping pace with the more sophisticated providers, such as Gmail, iCloud, and ProtonMail. These companies have been around for years, all of them before Google, but sadly, all of them are fails one way or another.

Yes, Google buys and sells your data (and trust me, they’re not the only ones out there doing that!), but if you can look beyond that, the company knows how handle email. (And search as well.) Using Google as your mail provider (or host) will solve your spam mail problem.

But switching isn’t always easy. Your Yahoo (or whatever) email address is embedded in many aspects of your life, and a quick switch to Gmail (or whoever) isn’t simply a matter of telling others you have a new email address. If any of your oft-used accounts (your bank, social security, Amazon accounts, et al.) are linked with your lousy email address, backing out and reestablishing with a new address is quite a chore.

To forward your email to a new address, you must log in to your email provider using a browser – Safari, Chrome, Firefox, whichever one works for you. (And means you need to know your email password!) Somewhere in there is the option to forward your mail to a new address. For example, in Optimum, in the webmail page, click SETTINGS>MAIL>MAIL FORWARDING and enter your email address in the field. You should UNCHECK “Keep a copy in your inbox” to avoid junk mail buildup. This is a similar process to what AOL and Yahoo mail users need to complete to enable the forwarding of their email to another address.  

A question I’m often asked is “Do you sell computers?”

The answer is “no” – because becoming an Apple Authorized Reseller entails a number of hoops to jump through, an area I certainly don’t want to enter, including having a brick-and-mortar business, becoming an Apple Authorized Service Provider, which means having the staff and ability to provide repairs, keeping “service parts” in stock, etc. etc.

One thing about Apple – it keeps its prices pretty much the same across the board – meaning what’s priced on the website is the same as you would pay in the store. For the most part. There are some exceptions, discounts on stock of older models when a new one is introduced, maybe a few bucks saved when buying at a warehouse club or buying “refurbished” from Apple or a third-party retailer.

Important note: As of press time, there is a shortage of RAM and other components that is affecting the availably of some models.

So here is a quick primer where you can buy your next Mac or other Apple product:

• Directly from Apple: Either in the store or at its website. You’ll be paying the same either way, the cost of the product plus state tax (and local tax, if applicable). One of the benefits of ordering online is that you can get it delivered to your home or office for free. Or if you’re in a hurry, sometimes you can opt for same-day delivery, which includes a small fee.

• Big box electronics store: Stores like Best Buy, P.C. Richards, B&H Photo, etc. are Apple Authorized Resellers. Typically, retailers like this stick to the Apple playbook as far as pricing goes, but again, there are discounts at times.

• Warehouse clubs: Costco sells a few Mac models (MacBook, iMac) along with accessories (iPhone, iPad, Apple Watch, and Apple TV, among others), while BJ’s and Sam’s Club offer only some Apple products, not Macs. I only belong to Costco, as there really isn’t a BJ’s or Sam’s Club too close to me.

Of course, there are the “used” dealers, including Apple Certified Refurbished (which comes with Apple’s standard warranty), but there are other sites, including Mac of All Trades, OWC, Back Market, Swappa, among others. Most of these are reputable outlets, so they’re generally safe. I’ve tried the “open box” sales at Best Buy, but there never seemed to be any vetting of what was sold as “open box,” so I would recommend skipping that option.

👉🏻 Helpful hint: Crossing the state line from New York to Connecticut will save you a few bucks on sales tax, but only if it’s convenient.

Last month, Apple released its latest game changing computer, the MacBook Neo. A rare reversal of its past trends, it’s priced far lower than any other current Mac. Prices start at $599 ($499 for education); it’s intended for users who are performing basic tasks on their computers; email, web surfing, document creation, storing photos, video conferencing, and streaming content. It’s a great starter computer, or one for users that aren’t going to perform processor-intensive tasks, such as high-end graphic arts, audio and video editing, and music creation.

So, first things first, we have to look at the specs of the computer. Since the processor specs are usually mumbo jumbo to the average user, I’ll let you know it’s the Apple A18 Pro, a very good one. However, the limitations are the RAM (only 8GB is available) and the internal storage (base model is 256 GB, but 512 GB is an option). But please note that the Neo (similar to Apple’s other laptops) isn’t upgradable aftermarket, so if you think you need the higher storage option, get it when you buy the computer, as to avoid buyer’s regret.

Speaking of regret, the Neo is available in four colors: Silver, Blush (light pink), Citrus (yellow), and Indigo. I know I would regret selecting citrus, but I’m in minority, because that is the most popular color, judging by early sales.

Questionable color choices aside, is this the computer for you or for anybody in your family?

If you’ve ticked off all the boxes above (standard usage, no processor-intensive tasks), it’s a great option. The form factor and weight are similar to the current MacBook Air (see specs below), so it also makes a lightweight travel computer.

MacBook Neo Tech Specs:

 13” Liquid Retina Display
 A18 Apple Pro Chip (6‑core CPU, 5‑core GPU) Processor
 8 GB Unified Memory RAM
 256 GB or 512 GB Internal Storage
 1080p Camera
 Apple Magic Keyboard (Touch ID only available on the 512 GB Configuration)
 16 Hour Battery Life
 2.7 Pound Aluminum Chassis

Base model (256 GB storage): $599 ($499 education)
Increased storage (512 GB storage): $699 ($599 education) *

*Note that only the 512 GB configuration includes Touch ID.

Program note #2: Both macOS and iOS have updates released last week, both versions 26.4, as Apple is trying to coordinate its OS versions.

If you’ve ever been to your town’s dump (or transfer station, as it’s commonly known as), it’s a pretty fascinating place. There, all types of products are segregated – cardboard, metal, garbage, plastics, etc. Each of these facilities also has electronics drop off area, which is laden with discarded electronic devices, both old and new. And although there are signs warning against scavenging, there are plenty of people picking through these devices, hoping to find gold.

So – before tossing your device in the dump with all your data intact, it’s imperative that you zero out (a cool word for “erase”) that data on your devices before tossing them into the great unknown.

First of all, I’ll proceed with the assumption that these devices are few generations (or more) behind what’s current. (Newer Macs – Ventura macOS 13 and later – are a bit easier to easily erase, through TRANSFER or RESET in the System Settings, which is under GENERAL, but most people aren’t getting rid of modern Macs.)

 Understand that a password protected hard drive isn’t enough to deter users from accessing your data. Erasing the drive (or physically destroying it) is enough. So here, I’ll go through the basics of handling this. (Understand that this is only a top-level, best-case scenario for erasing disks, assuming the computer still boots up.)

• To erase the hard drive of an older Mac, reboot the computer and hold town the COMMAND and R keys – until it fully boots. There, you’ll see the macOS Utilities screen. Click on DISK UTILITY and then highlight the Macintosh HD icon in the upper left column. Then, click on ERASE, which will then quickly erase the drive.

• For iPhones and iPads, tap on SETTINGS>GENERAL>TRANSFER or RESET iPHONE. Once there, you’ll be able to erase all your data. But it will force you to log out of your Apple Account (formerly known as iCloud). Easy enough!

• As far as PCs (aka Windows machines), it’s a simple process to open the case and remove the hard drive manually. Then you can take out your aggressions on it and smash it with a hammer. Preferably on an cement or asphalt surface.